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#1
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| 1) Is this possible? 2) How can I find out how many ohms the output is? |
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#2
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| I'd say contact the customer service dept. of whatever company made it, or ask the guy at the local guitar shop |
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#3
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| Anything is possible... I'd check with the manufacturer as to the spec's. |
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#4
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| First, a warning - if you have to ask, you most likely don't have the skills or tools to do this. Second, the impedance of the speaker is usually stamped on the magnet on the back. Third, there isn't a whole lot of point in doing this because of the way the math works. You have a total of thirty watts of power to work with. A speaker converts electrical energy to mechanical energy - a larger speaker can do more work, but requires more energy to do that work. Assuming the larger speaker is equal in efficiency to the original (not a safe assumption!), then to make louder sound will require more power. Since you still have a thirty watt amp, you get the same amount of sound. If your original speaker is blown, I'd say to just get a new one of the same size. If you are trying to get more sound, then make sure you check the speakers efficiency - this is usually measured in decibels per watt at one meter distance (dB/W @ 1M). The higher the number, the better. Sometimes you can get this spec, sometimes you can't - depends on the manufacturer. Speakers vary GREATLY. Depending on the design of the voice coil and cone, it may work well at lower frequencies and poorly at higher frequencies; bottom line is the amount of time it takes for the speaker voice coil to move from one extreme to the other. The shorter this time, the higher the frequencies it can produce. The spec you're looking for is called frequency response, is almost always available, and is measured in Hz - I've never tried to design a guitar amp, but a typical measurement for a midrange speaker might be 150Hz to 5KHz. The human ear can hear from about 10Hz to 20KHz. If you still decide to do this now that I tried to talk you out of it, make absolutely certain that you hook up all the ground wires the way they were in the original cabinet - you will have all sorts of hums and feedback if you don't. It would take forever to go into the design of a speaker cabinet. Let me know how it works out. Last edited by DeathTöngue; 08-29-2004 at 02:16 AM. |
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#5
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| He's right, you know... it won't produce more volume. Thirty watts is all you've got, sadly. A bigger speaker might get better bass, but it won't help volume. And tube amps... those are kinda complicated. Personally, I would save up and get a good 100-watt tube or solid-state amp and leave your 30W intact. Then you've got two amps that work just ducky. |
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#6
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| But, its a 30w tube amp with a sucky 10" speaker. I have seen 30w combos with 12" speakers and they are also hell louder. I have found out that it is a 8ohm speaker. AMde in Korea. Is it even worth replacing? |
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#7
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| 8 ohms is the most common impedance for speakers. You can find them as low as 2 ohms and and high as 32 ohms. But the impedance has nothing to do with the efficiency, and the more efficient it is, the louder it will be. Look around for good 10" speakers, and you might be surprised at the variations. As far as why one 30 watt amp might be louder than another, it is much less tied to the size of the speaker than its efficiency, and may have far more to do with the way the manufacturer measures the wattage - is that 30 watts RMS, 30 watts Peak, or 30 watts P-P? RMS is roughly 70% of the Peak power, in this case - and manufacturers are going to pick the number they believe will sell more amps. |
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#8
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| For instance, I've got a "40-watt" Fender Super Reverb amplifier that is louder than my brother's 100 watt 4X12" head-and-cab amp. Ratings differ a bit. |
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#9
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| Then the bigger question is.. do the numbers go to 11? |
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#10
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| All you need is a Sharpie (TM) to fix that. |
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#11
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| They go to 12 |
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